Loop Sweater

PatternLoop Sweater by Mina Philipp
Dates25th September – 14th November 2021
MaterialsDe Rerum Natura Ulysse
Goeland – 32g / 118.4m
Bois de Rose – 15g / 55.5m
Baleine Bleue – 17g / 62.9m
Plume – 12g / 44.4m
Dore – 12g / 44.4m
Walcot Yarns Opus
Grey – 122g / 396.5m
Love Potion – 18g / 58.5m
Plum – 44g / 143m
Cove – 36g / 117m
Goldenrod – 24g / 78m

3.00 and 3.5 mm needles
SizeCustom
RatingPattern: 5/5
Finished item: 5/5

When Mina gave advance notice that this pattern was coming up for test knitting, I signed up to the list right away and I was so happy she picked me to be one of the group! Actually it turned out to be quite a large group, because of the new concept of this pattern and the huge variety it can offer.

Basically in addition to the usual “set yarn weight, set sizing” pattern, for this one Mina is going to be offering a custom version using a spreadsheet system. That means you can basically use any yarn you like, and get a pattern which is custom-fit to the sizing you choose.

You really do have to swatch for this – sorry – but it’s a pretty crucial part of the process. You also need to know your body measurements and what ease you typically like or want for this garment. Once you’ve got the swatch measurements, you input that to the spreadsheet along with the yardage information for your chosen yarn, and it’ll calculate expected yardage required so you know if you’ve got enough or need to rethink. To calculate the pattern itself, input your body measurements – the spreadsheet adds 4 inches of positive ease to the body and 0 ease to the sleeves, so you will need to adjust the numbers you input to the chest and upper arm measurements accordingly, if you want more or less ease. I forgot to do this for the sleeves and remembered far too late, so my sleeves are more fitted than I would ordinarily have chosen.

Along with the Excel you will have to refer to the “conventional” PDF pattern for stitch instructions, finishing, and if you are using multiple colours, a very helpful section on calculating how many repeats to do per colour/section. This was essential for me because I was using up leftovers from two previous jumper projects, so in some cases I had a really limited amount leftover. I had plenty of grey so I wasn’t worried about yarn chicken for the project overall, but it was more a case that I wanted to know I’d be able to keep some regularity in the pattern for the rest of the colours so it wouldn’t end up looking too scrappy. I still had to employ a little trial and error – with the Ulysse colours, I had so little left I could only use them for 1.5 pattern repeats, but that worked out as I just threw in a bit more grey between the colour sections.

I’m generally quite happy with the finished fit of this jumper – in the end I veered away from the pattern instructions when it came to the length of the sleeves and the body, because I was more so following the colour blocking I’d worked out and the yarn I had left, but length is also so easily adjusted on the fly. At first when I finished and blocked it, I was a bit worried because there seemed to be too much excess yoke at the underarms, the sleeve separation was a bit below my armpits and the sleeves were very snug. However I’ve worn it a lot since, and it seems to have adjusted itself to my body in the wearing so I don’t notice these as issues anymore.

This pattern definitely requires some planning and thought if you are going to use the custom spreadsheet version, but I’d say it’s well worth it to get a well-fitted jumper with whatever yarn you want to use!

Finished measurements (after blocking)

  • Neckline width – 8.5 inches
  • Full bust – 21.5 inches across
  • Yoke depth – 9.5 inches (measured from centre front neck)
  • Body length (underarm to hem) – 14 inches
  • Total sweater length (shoulder to hem) – 24 inches
  • Sleeve length (inc. cuff) – 16 inches

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